The tiny, 12 hectare appellation of Boca highlights another side of Alto Piemonte's reds: Nebbiolo-dominant (with a bit of Vespolina and Uva Rara) wines that are exceptionally ageworthy, yet are noticeably more tender and graceful than their burly and better-known neighbors, such as Gattinara. The three Conti sisters (Elena, Anna and Paola) are the second generation of Conti to tend these tiny parcels, and the 1988 offers a rare glimpse into a Boca that's just coming into its own and has miles to go. This deserves a place on your table next to the greatest wines of Barolo and Barbaresco!