The tiny Charles Audoin operation has become one of the great outposts in the Côte de Nuits for ridiculous price/value rapport wines of real interest. Their Aligoté, then, isn't the typical bottle of dilute, lemony disappointment so many of them can be; instead, it issues from 90 year-old vines in Marsannay and is utterly transparent to site and riveting in the way that only wines from the oldest vines can be.