Much like Luca di Marchi's Uvaggio and Luigi Ferrando's Carema Etichetta Nera, the Produttori di Carema's Riserva Carema is one of the benchmark Nebbiolos of the Upper Piedmont. All the spice, tar and intensity of Barolo and Barbaresco are here...but with a lift and grace typical of top Alpine wines. In the end, it's no more than the difference between Nebbiolo from limestone and Alpine Nebbiolo from granitic soils. 95 points, Antonio Galloni.