This benchmark Côte de Beaune wine has changed in style from being a feminine, aromatic, drink-on-release thing in the 70s, 80s and 90s into a modern-day beast in a bottle, showing deep cherry/raspberry fruits, a dark, saturated color and fairly substantial tannins. Is it global warming? Is it a function of a conscientious grower, married to an exceptional vintage? Well, we don’t know...and to know is above our pay grade. What we DO know is that this is an exceptional Burgundy that sells for a fraction of its true value.