The secret is now an open one: Ian Brand is one of California's best growers, and his staggering range of wines from Monterey County have reignited interest in this oft-maligned appellation. And his faithful interpretations of "exotic" grape varieties- such as Piedmont's Arneis- only add to his reputation of being a winemaker who not only renders the classics well, but one who isn't afraid to go out on a limb in pursuit of quality.