Klaus-Peter Keller, a winegrower whom Jancis Robinson refers to as one of the "holy trinity" of (along with Egon Müller and JJ Prüm) of German Riesling producers, also makes one of Europe's best Silvaners. The key to this standard-setting cuvée is Keller's impeccable plantation of old vines on fossilized limestone in what was once the poorly-regarded western Rheinhessen. Crystalline purity, razor-sharp cut, piercing aromatics of lemongrass and verbena and thirst-provoking minerality all feature here in a bottle that will force you to re-think this misunderstood grape.