Being the purists we are, we tend to avoid the trendy Lazio bottlings that are based on New World grape varieties. So , when we tasted Cincinnato's version of Nero Buono (an ancient variety planted in the Cora hills), we loved it for its complex, red-fruited qualities and for its modest 13% alcohol...even though it's the kind of bottle that can stand up to big roasts, chops and stews.