Being the purists we are, we tend to avoid the trendy Lazio bottlings that are based on New World grape varieties. So , when we tasted Cincinnato's version of Nero Buono (an ancient variety planted in the Cora hills), we loved it for its quaffable, direct red-fruited qualities and for its modest 13% alcohol...even though it's the kind of bottle that can stand up to big roasts, chops and stews. If you've ever had the pleasure of dining through Rome, you'll see the locals drinking Nero Buono in big draughts with the hot-off-the-grill little lamb chops called scotta dita: translated literally as "finger-burners".