Matt and Sara Licklider's trailblazing LIOCO team searches the nooks and crannies of Northern California to find little plots of organically-grown grapes for what seems like an endless array of wines that are true to the region, yet remind us of their European counterparts. Their Sonoma Chardonnay is a case in point: it's very much Maconnais in style, yet there's none of the blistering acidity and simplicity of the typical California "no oak" Chardonnay. Practicing organic.