Seb Hardy is the rarest of winegrowers: he succeeds at both cold-climate and warm-climate viticulture. He and his wife, Colleen, split their year between South Australia and the Finger Lakes, crafting wines that are both cutting edge and perfectly expressive of each unique location. Their Session Sparkling White is a blend of PiWi darling Elvira and Riesling, with the ABV lowered to 8% with a judicious addition of piquette. Charmat process, but masterfully done.