Jean-Max Roger's two sons, Etienne and Thibault, are based in Sancerre's preeminent commune of Bué and expertly work their old-vine planting in Menetou-Salon for what is, to our taste, the finest non-Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc in the Loire Valley. The classic gooseberry-and-flint nose is here, with a sophistication of texture and length on the palate that only the very best wines of this region can give.