We've become big fans of Fongoli's ultra-classic wines that seem to issue effortlessly from a biodynamic, hands-off approach. Here, 40 year-old Sangiovese (along with a bit of Sagrantino, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) takes star billing in a Montefalco Riserva that rivals the best of Tuscany or Bordeaux in the departments of plush, plummy and deeply satisfying. Unfined and unfiltered.