The appellation of Pouilly-Fumé has become a minefield of heavy, oily, clunky and high-alcohol Sauvignon Blanc that bears little resemblance to the flinty, racy and persistent wines of old. We've held off for almost four years from having even one Pouilly-Fumé, but we're now happy to add the exceptional efforts of Rachel and Pascal Kerbiquet's Domaine du Bouchot to our shelves. They have multiple plots planted to both Kimmeridgian and Portlandian subsoils, and the domaine was the first in the appellation to gain organic certification and have been biodynamic in practice since 2008.