Giovanna Morganti has quietly but surely put her tiny, biodynamic estate at Castelnuovo Berardenga at the forefront of Tuscan wine. And her flagship cuvée, Le Trame- which is entitled to the Chianti Classico appellation she decided to forego several years ago- is a high-wire act of Sangiovese (hence the name "Le Trame", which roughly translates as "the drama") that pairs the straightforward, satisfying elements of the grape with a sort of high-toned, raspberry-scented lift that only the greats (Montevertine and Isole e Olena come to mind) seem to achieve. Best of all, the 2017 is already a wonderful, open and generous wine...a great gift for those of us who want the magic of Le Boncie now, while the 2015s and 2016s slumber.