The groundbreaking Teliani Valley wine company works in the mountainous western Georgian appellation of Racha-Lechkhumi. This Tsolikuri is fermented in stainless steel and offers complex aromas and flavors of citron, grapefruit and fine, filigreed minerality. It's an excellent place to start an exploration of Georgian whites that express refinement and high-altitude freshness rather than the deeper, more ponderous amber wines for which the region has become famous.