Much like the Comando G team in the Sierra de Gredos, Xabi Soeanes is a focused and driven winegrower who’s determined to do things the right way. And, in certain parts of Spain, that will run one afoul of the DO authorities (in Xabi’s case, Ribeira Sacra), and the DO will actually deny sanction if the grower cannot be brought to heel. In any case, what’s in the glass here is gorgeous, biodynamic Mencía from the steep terraces that cascade down to the Miño River, the Spain/Portugal border. Doing the Mencía thing of simultaneously resembling Syrah, Pinot Noir, Gamay and Cab Franc, this is a brilliant, balanced and flawless red that’s also clean as a whistle and doesn’t suffer from the reduction that plagues so many Mencía. Truly one of the benchmark wines of the natural/zero-zero movement.