Usonia's newest release is a dry Riesling from the outstanding Shaw Vineyard, located on the west side of Seneca Lake. And what a leesy, richly-textured and wildly fresh treat it is! If you're a fan of the old Kris Mathewson Bellwether Rieslings, this will take you right back to their heyday with a very obvious spontaneously-fermented quality, plenty of yeasty (almost wheat ale-y) aromas and then a payload of serious, mineral-inflected dry Riesling flavors. There may be no more exciting FLX winery right now than Julia and Alex Alvarez-Perez' labor of love.