Emmanuel Reynaud's exquisite Château des Tours seems to never get the attention accorded the other Reynaud estates, such as Fonsalette or Rayas, but to overlook these wines is to miss a chance at genius and greatness at the most modest prices imaginable for once-in-a-lifetime wine experiences. And here's a great case in point: what should be a humble, straightforward Grenache Blanc is transformed by Reynaud's meticulous farming into something both exotic and commanding and much more in line with what expectations would be for a top Châteauneuf Blanc. And as wonderful as it its to drink now, the structure and weight argue well for even further development into the future.