Damien Rineau's one-man operation, La Tour Gallus, finds him putting in a double shift in both vineyard and cellar, giving him complete control over a wine that's annually one of the best values we can find in the ever-more popular and expensive Muscadet appellation. Rineau's cool-climate, ocean-influenced vineyards are planted to a subsoil of altered gabbro, formed from ancient magma turned to stone; it's one of the most interesting and distinctive soils of the entire region. Bring on the oysters!