Ian Barry's co-ferment of Gewürztraminer and Pinot Noir is a harmonious blend of two grape varieties whose qualities don't immediately suggest a happy marriage. However, what ends up in the bottle is a light red/substantial rosé that immediately reminded us of Jochen Beurer's rosé of Trollinger, a shape-shifter in the glass that seemingly becomes a different wine when served at different temperatures. If you love light reds and/or more substantial pink wines, there's a tension between savory elements and refreshing qualities that makes for fascinating drinking and an endless number of possible food pairings.