Rémi Branger and Gwénaëlle Croix have fully taken the reins from original proprietor Marc Ollivier, but absolutely nothing has changed at this iconic estate whose wines simultaneously launched the natural wine movement and saved the reputation of this much-maligned, much-misunderstood western outpost of Loire Valley viticulture. The La Pépie is from a granitic, old-vine plot but isn't given extended lees aging and is bottled at the end of winter as AOC Muscadet. However, what's in the bottle is anything but generic Muscadet! Organic.