Lusenti’s Mare d’Inverno walks the line between traditional Piacenza stylings and cutting-edge natural winemaking. Here, Barbera is carbonically fermented dry, then fermented again in bottle with elderflower must and given three months’ aging, unfiltered. The result is an incredibly pure expression that’s given complexity by a touch of thirst-inducing bitterness from the elderflower and a presence that’s decidedly “natty” without being over the top.