The family firm of Brunori was the first estate-bottler of wines in the Ancona province of Le Marche, beginning in 1956 by offering a full array of classic Verdicchio whites and reds of varying intensity, made from Sangiovese and Montepulciano. The Rosso Conero "Barco" is a meaty, gutsy red with admirable richness and density. It's a great counterpoint to their lighter, crunchier Rosso Piceno and more suited to substantial foods.