Jean-Marc Lafage and importer Eric Solomon team up to offer us what has to be the single best Chardonnay value on the planet: tender, fragrant and perfectly structured fruit from France's Côtes Catalanes, raised in stainless steel tank on Viognier lees. The result isn't at all what you'd expect from either heavily-processed and diluted Chardonnay from either France or California; instead, it's a lively, energetic and food-friendly burst of sunshine that makes us wonder why more wineries all over the world don't follow this simple recipe.