Paolo Scavino's Affinato in Carati is in no way a typical Barbera d'Alba. It hails from an old vines plot in Castiglione Falletto, is vinified in stainless steel, then aged for a year in neutral oak to soften and round it. Dark, rich and massively structured, it's a Barbera meant to share the table with the very best reds of Piemonte. It's also immensely age worthy, but there's no denying the early-drinking appeal of this rich, aromatic elixir.