Gianluca Grasso is a master of walking the tightrope between big, bold, angular "tar-and-roses" Barolo and the more modern sensibility that emphasizes body, texture and approachability. The surprisingly great vintage of 2017 wasn't without its spikes of excessive heat and dryness, yet Grasso managed to fashion Barolo of the same quality as his legendary 2016s, as confirmed by critics such as Antonio Galloni.