Raúl Pérez' Ultreia- Saint Jacques is one of his "entry-level" reds. That being said, when the wines in question are Ultreia, it means you're in the presence of Mencía of the highest order. This dusty, savory, plummy glass of goodness features both richness and roundness, yet those qualities are balanced by restrained alcohol and an absence of manipulation. This is a wine that argues well the case that there may be no more adept and sensitive winegrower in Spain at the moment than Señor Pérez.