Agnés Levet's 2020 Chavaroche is the usual flamboyant and wildly aromatic joyride we've come to expect from this exuberant- yet fiercely traditional- cuvée. And because of its engaging and energetic personality, critics who've normally given good- but not over-the-top- scores over the years have taken notice, with marks being much higher than in previous years. Vinification of this Côte Brune plot of barely 1.2 hectares is whole cluster, and élevage is done mostly in older barrels, as the idea is always to highlight the raspberry, bacon, bay laurel and black olive elements.