Here's the flagship wine of Marjorie Gallet's superb domaine, a fresh, dynamic and lifted tangle of old-vines Carignane and Grenache that defies the stereotype of Roussillon wines being heavy, grapy, high-octane exercises in dullness. It's also truly a Catalan wine and invites favorable comparison with any number of Catalan reds from across the Spanish border. Practicing organic.