Anne Gros and Jean-Paul Tollot apply Burgundian sensibilities to Languedoc whites and reds, turning what are usually chunky, full-throttle wines into nuanced studies of vintage and place. Their 2022 Côtes du Brian Grenache (named for Tank 8 in their winery) is a case in point: 30 year-old vines yield a wine that’s all fraises-and-garrigue, but there’s a gentility and restraint here that come from 650 meters in elevation and limestone subsoils. Superb!