Domaine du Jaugaret, Saint-Julien 2016

Domaine du Jaugaret, Saint-Julien 2016

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This spectacular, but diminutive (only 1.3 ha) estate has been in the hands of the Fillastre family since 1654 and is now expertly run by Jean-François Fillastre. And Monsieur Fillastre is dedicated to one- and only one- goal: the exploitation of his old vines (average age, 55 years) of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the rest a smattering of Verdot and Malbec, to produce a wine that speaks precisely of Saint-Julien...and nothing else. And those old vines, planted to scrappy, meager, gravelly soils, yield the kind of Saint-Julien we remember from the pre-1982 Parkerization of many of the great châteaux: structured, savory, built-to-last and a bit shy out of the gate. Ironically, with the AOC's insistence upon glossy, modern wines since 1982, Jaugaret's blessing as a Saint-Julien wine is always in question...but what is never in question is the absolute authenticity and superior quality of the finished wine that goes into the bottle.