Here’s a delightful, fleshy and textural blend of 55% Grüner, 45% Riesling in which the Grüner is skin fermented and the Riesling is direct press. It’s spontaneously fermented and unfined, with the elements in play giving quite the impression of an equivalent effort by any number of top Austrian growers. Dillon Buckley, whose day job is making wine at Hermann J. Wiemer, has impressed with his first efforts, and the barely-ripe yellow plum fruit on display here is both satisfying and sophisticated.