Importer Neal Rosenthal's first foray into Emilia-Romagna has unearthed the iconoclastic wines of biodynamic specialist Gianluca Bergianti. And not surprisingly, Bergianti's wines are nothing like the insipid, sweetish Lambrusco served up by many of the region's more commercial producers. In fact, Bergianti's sparkling wines are not produced by the ubiquitous autoclave (he even produces a cuvée named "No Autoclave"!), but rather, a second fermentation in bottle that's activated by grape must and allowed to finish dry. The PerFranco is a rosé from the local Salamina di Santa Croce grape that features sizzling acidity married to aromas and flavors of wild fraises and tender herbs. Biodynamic.