Los Bermejos’ mastery extends to the indigenous Diego variety, which here is given a straightforward ferment and three months’ lees contact in stainless steel. Of course, none of the Bermejos wines smell or taste straightforward, and this is a floral, citrus-zesty, sea-salty tangle of fun! If you’ve ever wanted to get into Canary Island wines, start here. Organic and sustainable principles.