Marie-Odile and Jean-Claude Janin quietly work their superb Maconnais domaine, making wines of subtlety, precision and unusual intensity. Over the past 20 years, they've expanded their old vines holdings from four hectares to eight, and their plot in Péronne remains the best introduction to the wines of this underrated estate. Notes of acacia, pain grillé and barely-toasted hazelnut are the hallmarks of a wine that we'd reach for over scores of overwrought, overpriced Chardonnays from the Côte d'Or.
Note: it's absolutely essential that you treat this like a top white Burgundy: don't overchill it, and serve it in your best crystal stemware. To our taste, Maconnais wines don't get any better than this.