Megan Bell is a talented, patient young winemaker who's working in some of the lesser-known appellations of California (hence, the name "Margins"). And she has the skin-fermentation- in this case, 30 days' contact- of beautiful Clarksburg Chenin completely dialed in. Melony, mineral Chenin meets that savory/umami thing here in a delightful and complex beverage of beauty.