Patrick Brunet's excellent 2023 Morgon Côte du Py continues a string of superb- yet different- vintages that offer a glimpse into the talents of a man who is perhaps the most underrated winegrower in Beaujolais. As with his Fleurie "Tradition", the Morgon is from vines that range between 50-75 years of age planted to a tiny section of Côte du Puy that features combination soils (mostly granite and limestone). Vat fermentation and long cuvaisons are the rule here, and in a fresh, early-drinking year such as 2023, there's plenty of immediate pleasure on offer (the traditional sour fruits-and-minerals markers of great Morgon are already dramatically evident).