Rémi Branger and Gwénaëlle Croix have fully taken the reins from original proprietor Marc Ollivier, but absolutely nothing has changed at this iconic estate whose wines simultaneously launched the natural wine movement and saved the reputation of this much-maligned, much-misunderstood western outpost of Loire Valley viticulture. To say it's the quintessential shellfish/seafood wine or one of the greatest white wine values on earth doesn't really do justice to an estate that honestly and simply exudes mastery of craft in every bottle they produce. Organic.