Rémi Branger and Gwénaëlle Croix have fully taken the reins from original proprietor Marc Ollivier, but absolutely nothing has changed at this iconic estate whose wines simultaneously launched the natural wine movement and saved the reputation of this much-maligned, much-misunderstood western outpost of Loire Valley viticulture. The Gras Moutons is from an old-vine plot, planted over gneiss and amphibolite; it spends nine months on the lees and is the "fattest" and most expressive of the range of Pepière wines, while remaining precise and true to the appellation.. Organic.