Rodri Méndez' old-vine (average age: 35 years), pergola-trained Albariño is always a welcome arrival at TFWR, and the 2024 is no exception. On opening, subtle hints of honeysuckle, jasmine and quince give way to the unmistakable saline minerality of the Condado de Tea subzone. Typical of this warmer inland district, there's a bit more flesh on the bone here, which is a welcome thing, as it makes the wine a great match with more substantial foods than shellfish and crustaceans...although we'd never turn down a pairing with a half-dozen oysters. Sustainable viticulture.