We’re rarely moved by the Tempranillo that comes from Ribera del Duero, as it’s often thick, high-octane and forbiddingly tannic in its youth. However, the fourth generation brother duo of Rodrigo and Asier Calvo have taken Bodegas Arrocal to the top of this appellation’s A-list with their short macerations, careful handling of fruit (all done by gravity to minimize extraction of harsh elements) and gentle basket pressing. The result, especially with the old vine Casablanca plot, is an almost Burgundian wine of refinement and detail that will have you re-thinking the potential of this misunderstood place.