If you love old school Rioja from Centenario bodegas, look no further than the 2017 Reserva "Ardanza" from La Rioja Alta. Their attention to detail and quality is admirable, as they produce their own cooperage and pursue sustainable, organic practices in the vineyard (a rarity in this region which is still dominated by huge "factory" firms). The Ardanza is only made in top vintages, and the 2017 is just rounding into form, offering spicy, coffee-tinged notes that are sure to please. Organic and sustainable farming.