There's perhaps no white wine in Italy that combines value, sophistication and complexity more than Arneis (a white mutation of Nebbiolo!). And when the subject is Arneis, there is one acknowledged master of the grape: Stefano Almondo, who's carried on the work of his father, Giovanni, in tending their prized, old-vines, hillside plots in Roero, just west of Barolo. The "Bricco delle Ciliegie" is a bit of a step up from the multi-vineyard Sparse cuvée as its brisk, limestony cut is rounded by a short stay in neutral oak barrels. This is the perfect wine for plates of simple salumi and cheeses and all kinds of cold antipasti. If you're not on the Arneis train yet...you should be!