Megan and Ryan Glaab's Ryme Wine Cellars is at the forefront of using Italian grape varieties in California to make transparent, authentic wines of place. Of course, these hearty Mediterranean varieties also fare well in the frankly hot, dryish climate that's the new reality of almost all California grapegrowing. The "Hers" Vermentino (there's also a "His" version) uses fruit from Las Brisas Vineyard in the cooler, bay-adjacent Carneros to fashion a refreshing, saline and textural gem that's definitely California in nature, yet offers hints of Liguria, Sardinia and Provence. Organic and biodynamic principles.