Larue's 1er Cru Sous Roche Dumay is the kind of white Burgundy that delivers triple-digit complexity and quality at a double-digit price. In 2020, this cuvée offers a hint of classy gunflint reduction on opening that soon resolves into aromas and flavors of toast, roasted hazelnut and butter. There's also ample acidity and restraint in the winemaking here, so the wine never veers into the lane of clumsy, overoaked or hot on the finish. We'd rather have three bottles of this on hand than one bottle of expensive and questionable Chassagne or Puligny! Sustainable farming.