We're excited by table wines that issue from Sherry grapes and Sherry terroir (in this case, Sanlúcar), especially when the wines capture freshness and energy and not necessarily the oxidative and ponderous qualities of their fortified brethren. Enologist Ramiro Ibáñez' Mayatería Sanluqueña here vinifies Palomino from classic barajuela albariza soils grown by Antonio Bernal, tops up the barrels (to prevent Sherry's flor from developing) into a rather intense, mineral and blossom-scented white that'll pair with anything from raw shellfish to grilled sea bass.