Mathieu and Charlotte Tijou have taken Château de l’Éperonnière to new heights after taking over in 2007 from Pierre-Yves Tijou. Their Savennières from the estate's schistous Croix Picot vineyard is, to us, the height of sophistication in dry Chenin Blanc; it's steely, massively structured...yet delivers the tender, melon/apple qualities of Chenin Blanc in a way that can only be described as "iron fist in velvet glove". To our taste, dollar for dollar, there may be no finer dry white wine that comes from France.