William Goldschmidt (Corzano e Paterno) and his Clivo Altura project have found a 25 year-old Pinot Noir plot within a 2,000 hectare forest at 650 meters altitude for their Le Bighellone. Sangiovese won’t ripen here, but this cool spot is perfect for a wine that is both immediately recognizable as Tuscan and as Pinot Noir of the highest order. There’s intense spice and savor from whole cluster fermentation, and the Macigno sandstone of the vineyard supplies a filigreed backbone for what is one of the best Italian Pinot Noirs we’ve ever encountered.